Dhankar Gompa

On the left bank of the Spiti river at a distance of 32 kms downstream from Kaza, near Shichling at an altitude of 3870 m, nestles the citadel of Dhankar, the official capital of Spiti. The citadel is built on a spur which projects into the main valley and ends in a precipice. The location of this fort is strategic as Spiti always had to suffer innumerable aggressions by its neighbors. The location allowed the Spitian to keep vigil on the approaches and to submit messages to surrounding inhabitations in case of danger. Whenever the Spitians were attacked, they built huge fires to signal meeting in the safe sanctuary of rocks, i.e., Dhankars. In the meeting all men and women decided the course of action to be taken against the aggressors.
According to the State Gazetteer, the fort became notorious for housing a cavernous dungeon which ‘The Nono’ used as prison. It contained a cell without doors having only a small opening at the top through which the condemned person was lowered and received his meals."
The fort of Dhankar now lies in ruins, but still is a place worthy of visit. From the remnants of the fort one can see vast expanses of the Spiti valley.
Dhankar is also of art historical importance. Founded between 7th and the 9th centuries, Dhankar's old temple complex occupies the southern part of the steep mountain slope of the village. It is known by the name of Lha-O-pa Gompa (monastery of the followers of Lha-O).
The monastery consists of a number of multi-storeyed buildings perched together, giving a fortress like impression. There are five different halls including Kanjur, Lhakhang, and Dukhang where a life size silver statue of Vajradhara, the Diamond Being, is placed in a glass altar embellished with scarves and flowers.
Most interesting at the Lha-O-pa gompa is the small chapel on the uppermost peak above the main monastery - Lhakhang Gongma. The building is decorated with depictions of Shakyamuni, Tsongkhapa and Lama Chodrag on the central wall. Dhankar's main attraction, although least publicised, is a fresh water lake about 2.5 km from the village at a height of 13500 ft. Set amidst lush green pastures, the lake offers a perfect idyllic camping site. Some boating facilities are proposed to be introduced in the near future. Under the Desert Development Project of Spiti the common carp variety of fish has been introduced in this lake. No angling is, however, allowed in the lake.
Dhankar is approachable by a motorable road, good for all vehicles, which branches off for Dhankar from the main Kaza – Sumdoh road at a point around 24 kms from Kaza. The branch road is 9 kms in length upto Dhankar.

TIPS FOR TREKKERS

Trekking is a very vast subject and it may not be possible to explain and describe many points in detail. But our experience shows that some points are very important in the preparation for a trek, knowledge of minor details for foreign tourists/ trekkers and how to do trekking in India. In the same way it is important to know as to what is to be done and what is prohibited according to the customs of our country. The Himalayan trekking is different due to sudden change in weather, altitudes and different terrains one comes across on any particular route. One needs a great patience for adjustment, tolerance and coping with one’s summerised them in the from of tips for trekkers and Do’s and Don’t for trekkers for an enjoyable trekking trip in the Indian Himalaya especially in Himachal Pradesh.

Physical Fitness: To enjoy trekking in the Himalaya one should be physically fit as one has to be at considerable good heights from 200m to 500m for most of the time and may face acclimatization problem. It is better to do some physical exercises and short treks at home before joining a trekking groups.

Personal Qualities: One needs a lot of tolerance and patience for adjustment with co-trekkers, the organizers and situation prevailing on treks. For, one feels irritated due to non acclimatization and other things at high altitude. In India one should not expect everything perfect in this new field of sport and thus some allowance has to be given for certain lapses because one has to go by the social customs, Suitable temperament is an important consideration in the Himalayan trekking.

Medical considerations: Foreigners are required to undergo some immunization which has to be entered in their international certificate of vaccination. It is also advised to take anti malaria tablets when they are in India to be on safer side. Some trekkers who do not get sound sleep due to high altitude, can use sleeping pills occasionally. In a group there should be a medical aid. People with history of asthma, bronchitis and heart problems should not venture trekking in Himalaya.

Equipment: We have explained the details of equipment needed on a trek. Check list may be studied carefully and equipment be brought accordingly. (See chapter four)

Insurance: Every adventurer should get himself insured in his country for a sufficient amount to cover the accident risk as well as rescue operations either by land or by helicopter. Our experience shows that most of the foreign travelers, trekkers, mountaineers and others, who are participating in any such activity in India, are fully insured. However, one should also have evacuation cover by helicopter which is expensive but safe. Only little extra money is involved but lot of botheration is saved. Indian tourists and adventurers should also follow this practice.

Passport and Visa: All documents concerning Visa and Passport etc. should be in order before starting the journey. All regulations regarding visa are available with Indian Embassies. For more details consult Travel Regulations chapter tow.

Trekking Permit: There is no such system of issuing a trekking permit in India as is done in Nepal and other countries. But one should not enter the restricted areas without permission.

Currency: India has coins and notes. The coins are of a denomination of 5, 10, 20, 25, 50 paisa and one, two, five rupees. One rupee is equal to 100 paisa. The notes have the denomination of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 rupees. US dollars and other currency of various countries can be exchanged at big hotels and many banks in all important towns and cities. It is better to keep small notes if you are going on trekking or to remote places where there is no possibility of a bank.

Language: Although there are 15 languages recognized by our Constitution yet English and Hindi are generally understood in all hilly areas especially in the tourist place of Himachal Pradesh.

Information Media: There are various English News papers and other Weeklies which provide the required news and information on other events of the country and outside world. Many good books and local guides are also available at different places for the information of the tourists. Tourism Department of India as well as of the states has offices in every important town to provide all sorts of information about that area.

Business Hours: Sunday is closed for offices, banks and shops. Office and banks function from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. on Saturdays; banks exchange money only up to 12 hrs. Also take into account festivals and national holidays which are also closed. However, at some places evening bank counters function.

Season: The season and period for trekking will differ from region but the general season is April-June and September-December. There are certain areas like Lahaul, Spiti, and Pangi and Kinnaur valleys in Himachal Pradesh where one can trek during monsoon because of very little rain during this period.

Heights and Distances: Heights and distances quoted in the itineraries may not be very accurate but an attempt has been made to give the nearest correct and accurate heights and distances.

Telecommunication: Making international calls has now become easy especially from big cities. Telex and fax as well as telegrams can also be sent as an alternative to phones. Arrangements exist in almost every tourist place.

Walking Stage: Normally a trekker should walk from 3km. to 4km. per hour. A trekker has not only to walk but to see around him the scenery, click the camera, stop to see and listen to the chirping of birds or to enjoy the view of a water fall etc. Secondly one is walking at a high altitude where the speed is less.

Maps and Routes: There trekking maps of Himachal Pradesh have been prepared by the Survey of India which are available with tourist offices. We however are giving some maps with more routes and places of interest indicated in them, which will be of great help to the trekkers. Similarly some routes have been explained with details and rest are left for the trekkers to explore.

Restricted Area: Himachal has border with Ladakh and Tibet and has some areas like Spiti valley as well as Kinnaur district which are restricted for foreign tourists. Even the Indian Nationals have to obtain permit to enter these permission from the District Magistrate of the area and foreign nationals have to approach Government of India, Ministry of Home Affairs, New Delhi.

Food: While in cities or towns one can order for any type of food, but during trekking one should adjust to the local diet, fresh vegetables and seasonal fruits, instead of tinned food. Even fresh meat, eggs and chicken are available in some remote villages. One should however, remind the cooks every time not to put chilies in the food. The big trekking agencies the menu in such a way that the food on trekking route is healthy and nutritious whether it is western or Indian. Mostly trekkers prefer mixed food all types which is a good intention to adjust and enjoy.

Drinking Water: To drink water from direct source, stream or river is not safe especially for foreign tourists. They should therefore use either boiled water or purify it with iodine or other medicines. Some people prefer to fill up their water bottles with black tea and put some fresh lemon juice in it to be used the whole day.

Sickness on a Tour: It is case of exposure in most of the cases. Since the weather in the Himalaya is not very certain, the trekkers should keep essential clothing like wind cheater, gloves, woolen garments and head cover with them so that they could be used according to the changing weather. Other reason is non acclimatization to heights. Any sickness must be controlled at once either with your personal medicines or taken from the doctor.

Tabo

At the right of Spiti river , is an ancient village named Tabo, flanked on either side by lofty brown hills and sun burnt, is the seat of one of the most famous Buddhist monasteries-Sherlang, Duang, Chamba, Chibbo, Domlang Gompas, regarded by many as only next to the Tholong Gompa in Tibet. The 10th Century Tabo monastery houses more than 60 lamas, large number of scriptures and pieces of art, wall paintings ‘tankhas’ and ‘stucco’.

Lhalung Monastery

One of Spiti’s oldest monasteries is in Lha-lun, a two-hour drive from Dhankar. It is believed to have been constructed overnight by the Gods after Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo planted a willow tree here, stating that if it lived through the year, a temple be build next to it. The tree stands outside thegompa to this day.

There is a dark passage around the temple meant for circumambulation of the inner sanctum. Once, the passage walls were decorated with beautiful paintings, though these have now faded. Outside this temple is the lang-carpo (White temple), with four stucco images of Buddha facting the four cardinal directions. These statues are as old as the monastery.

The name Lha-lun god is the ‘Land of God’, from lha, god and lun, area. Local claim that the Lha-lun god is the head of all deities in the Tangmar Mountain located beyond the village in the valley. There is a strong belief among the local people that this mountain changes color from time to time, in conformity with the gods’ moods; for example, red in anger or yellow in joy.

Adventures in Spiti: Sky is the Limit

Spiti is a paradise for adventure sport lovers and offers a range of options from mountain biking, safaris (yak-a native species, horse and jeep), hiking and treating, river rafting down the Spiti & Pin River, skiing & boarding.

Some of our custom-made tours that will give you a feel of real adventure are:

1. The Spiti Safari:

Discover Spiti using a mix of traditional & modern conveyance. Drive in to Spiti & than traverse the region astride the sure footed Chumurti horses or on the yaks, an integral part of Spitian life.

2. Mountain Biking Trails:

Various trails that take you in & out of unknown realms coupled with breathtaking views make biking the ideal way of traversing this mystical land. Despite the ruggedness of the terrain there are umpteen camp sites that will have you spell bound.

3. Trekking:

Spiti is a paradise for trekkers and offers a range of options. Mountain passes provide an easy access to neighboring areas of Ladakh, Kinnaur, and Kullu & Lahaul. Some of the well known treks we offer are the Pin-Parbati, Parang-La & the Pin-Bhaba. We also provide you the opportunity to experience the true essence of trekking by traverse through remote pristine and forgotten trails.

4. White water Rafting:

For a thrilling adrenaline adventure, which will exhilarate your senses and invigorate your spirits, we offer white water rafting down the Spiti and Pin rivers.

5. Skiing & Boarding:

The winters shroud Spiti in white and make the region a delight for skiers. We offer long and short trips in Spiti.

Exploring the Trans- Himalayan Deserts:

Millions of years ago, Spiti lay submerged under the Tethys Sea. Remnants of its geological past are evident in its unique landscape & diverse fossils. Spiti is also home to rare & endangered wildlife such as the Snow Leopard, Tibetan Wolf, Ibex, and Blue Sheep, Red fox, Marmots, Snow cock & numerous migratory birds. Despite a high altitude cold desert, Spiti boasts of more than 450 species of Medicinal & aromatic plants that add charm to the trails in which they are found. Walk with use through the history of the Himalayas, with turquoise blue lakes & snow clad peaks as your constant companions.

Home away from Home

When we think about tourist’s accommodation, what comes to mind are hotels. These have a defined image of multi-storied buildings with a number of rooms. In today’s context, a tourist prefers accommodation in the nature habited and homely atmosphere which is comfortable and shows you the real picture.

Tourists who come from abroad and various regions in India are generally fond of local culture, traditions and home cooked food. Staying with a local family at a tourist place is both economical and informative about local people and their culture.

Home stay accommodation provides local people an opportunity to showcase their customs and culture to the tourists and is a source of earning without any investment. It is also acquaints them with the culture of the visitors.

The historical & culture richness of Himachal Pradesh is indeed unique. The monuments, paintings, ridges, valleys, river and other geographical features are both colorful and varied. The parks, wild life sanctuaries, lakes and abundance of fairs and festivals offer enjoyment and learning in the lab of nature.

Home Stay features:

1) Rural living accommodation with Himachali families.
2) Introducing visitors to the village life.
3) Home cooked local food and marketing of local handicraft and art.
4) Visits to apple orchards, tea gardens organic farms, trekking, camping etc.
5) Himachali traditions, costumes, village culture music, village fairs & Home-Stay

Total number of registered home stays in Himachal Pradesh: 160